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ABOUT JAMAICAN
COOKERY
JAMAICAN COOKERY differs from that of the other West Indian
Islands by reason of Jamaica's slightly different ethnic mix.
The remnant of pre-Colombian menu lingers on in the use of cassava
and other indigenous provisions used by the original Arawak
Indians. The short-lived Spanish supremacy remains with the
commodities introduced by the Spaniards such as sugar cane,
the banana, the orange and many other fruits and vegetables,
as well as cattle, sheep, pig, chicken and the honeybee.
With the Spanish in 1894 came the Jews and between them we now
enjoy Escoveitched Fish, Solomon Gundy, Gizzada and other ultra-palatable
recipes. From 1665 the British people taught us to make custards
and dumplings. Through the later east Indian middle eastern
and Chinese immigrants, additional influences such as rice and
the legendary "curry goat" were added to the national cuisine.
The largest legacy of all has been the predominant African influence,
principally in the use of ackee, yams, dasheen and other delectable
such as Dukanoo or Blue "Draws." These dishes are today valued
for their taste and economy and have joined the ranks of the
now popular rastafarian trend. In Jamaica it is called Ital
or Soul Food, while overseas it is termed Roots Fare,
Island Shack Food or Yard Style eating.
West Indian food is spicy, but Jamaican food calls for a unique
combination of "seasoning" for meats and savories which includes
lime, garlic and the incomparable, very hot but elusively favorable
Jamaican Scotch Bonnet Pepper. However, the secret ingredient
in most Jamaican cookery is the indigenous pimento berry or
"Allspice". It is the judicious addition of this mysterious,
pungent spice that provides the exotic taste that highlights
Jamaican cuisine in dishes as varied as soups and stews to fruit
compotes and Jamaican Christmas Pudding.
THE BUSHA
BROWNE STORY
In 1836, HOWE PETER BROWNE, 2nd Marquess of Sligo, returned
to Westport, Ireland, taking with him fond memories of the spicy
and exotic dishes he had been served during his governorship
of Jamaica.
Known as "The Emancipator of the Slaves", the noble Marquess
had earned himself a renowned place in Jamaican history for
his two year term of office. His had been the unenviable task
of supervising the first stage of Emancipation which was unpopular
with the reactionary planters for whom the abolition of slavery
assuredly meant financial ruin. In desperation many of these
planters subsequently sold their vast estates to the local managers
who were known as "BUSHAS".
Sligo himself was among the first to free his slaves on his
Jamaican estates - Kelly and Cocoa Walks - which he had inherited
from his ancestors, the Kellys and Brownes of Ireland; Jamaican
settlers from the late 1600s. The Brownes became wealthy and
were numbered among the respected members of the plantocracy
who were famous for their entertaining and the variety of food
they served. In Jamaica their name has always been pronounced
"BROWNEY".
A descendant of the family Sligo, Charles Adolphus Thorburn
Browne - familiarly known as Charlie Browne - has spent most
of his 75 years "cooking up a storm". He whiled away many hours
of his boyhood days in the kitchen of his family home, Tryall
Estate in Hanover, western Jamaica. Later, cooking became a
hobby and he retrieved from his family archives recipes for
authentic Jamaican sauces, jams, pickles and condiments made
from the great variety of exotic Jamaican fruits and vegetables:
all unique, spicy and delicious. Specially selected recipes
from this treasure trove are now being prepared and bottled
for Busha Browne's Company in Jamaica to be enjoyed as much
as they were over 200 years ago. |
Busha
Brownes
Fine Jamaican Produce
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